Hobbies and Crafts

Yes Vera, a lovely time of year if it would only stop raining for more than one day at a time. OH has just today planted his seeds for annual flowers. I thought he was not doing it any more but he found some seeds in a drawer so had to plant them. Neighbour will be pleased when we go away!

I went away 9 days ago and most people's gardens were fairly bare. Drove back yesterday past front gardens bright with crocuses, daffs etc. In our own little garden, the witch hazel has pretty much finished blooming but while we have been away the February Gold daffs have opened up. Isn't it wonderful the difference a week makes? I love this time of year because there seems to be something new in the garden nearly every day.

I love to see the blossom on the trees Gwyn. I am not so enamoured with the blossom when it falls from our neighbours tree into our garden, usually all over my hostas. (It is a later flowering tree).

Almond blossom about to open locally.

What a lovely sight that always is against a bright blue sky.

I wonder if this week's weather will be warm enough for that to happen.

No Vera we didn't go in there although I seem to remember seeing it mentioned outside. Sounds lovely.

Meal was lovely thanks. We're eating in the hotel tonight as the menu looks OK and we have a 20% discount voucher :-)

Saw another small garden today called the Magic Garden. Did you find it when you were here Ann? It's on the prom area next to the big Magic gym/health centre. We knew it was there last year but didn't know how to get in to it. Apparently you go in to the gym and ask the lady on reception and she lets you in or you go to the cafe on the other side and there is an entrance through the cafe. It's quite small but beautifully done with paths winding through lots of plants of all sorts. You could probably walk straight round in 20 mins but, stopping to look at things and take photos, we were there for about an hour and the best thing is there is no charge. A real hidden gem :-D

Oh really Vera, how sad, it was beautiful too. We liked the Monte palace garden as well though.

Enjoy your meal

Forsythia is a lovely cheerful plant when it is in flower but I find it a bit dull the rest of the time.

We decided to go to the Orchid garden today, going up the hill by cable car and getting the bus back. It wasn't till we got there that we discovered that it had been completely destroyed in the fire they had on Madeira last August, which is very sad. As we were already up the hill at Monte we went to the Monte Palace tropical gardens instead. Well worth a visit. Lots of big trees and shrubs, plenty of colour from azaleas, begonias and other plants, lots of water, and plenty of architectural features and sculptures. There was a cafe but it only did a few sandwiches and they were not very good.

The other thing, of course, is that it is built on the side of a hill so there is a lot of walking up and down. Why do there always seem to be more ups than downs? Just about to go out for a meal and have booked a table at a place recommended to us. More hills - my poor feet
:-(

I do like Forsythia, we don't have any in our garden but it is such a cheerful bush and so bright after the dull days of winter. I used to pick branches when they were in bud in our previous house and they would open indoors. Lovely. Our garden is looking pretty now with lots of crocus (when the sun shines, at the moment their flowers are all closed against the cold wind), snowdrops, dutch iris, miniature daffs and taller daffs all in bloom. Cricus are pinky lilac and deeper lilac and purple. :-)

A chilly dull day here, but lovely to see a garden edged by quite a broad hedge of opening japonica, when I was near town earlier.

Another garden had a large bush of forsythia showing tightly closed yellow flower buds, so that will be a magnificent show soon.

Thank you BK. Some useful reminders there.

Welcome to the thread Kathryn.

Lots of helpful info , thanks bk

Thanks for that BK. Phew I feel exhausted just reading it but lots of useful information there.

Hope all is well with you, not seen you around on here lately.

March

Spring arrives & jobs to do in March

Spring usually arrives by mid-March and the frequent sunny days provide the opportunity for an increasing range of gardening tasks. It's time to get busy preparing seed beds, sowing seed, cutting back winter shrubs and generally tidying up around the garden.

Hardy annuals can be sown in pots or modules to provide colour in the garden. In mild areas you can sow directly outside. Marking out irregularly shaped seedbeds and broadcasting drifts of different seed gives a more natural look.

Sweet peas can be sown outside this month. Place autumn-sown sweet peas in a sunny position, perhaps on a high shelf in the greenhouse that gets plenty of light. Sow summer bedding plants in a heated propagator or under glass.

Early spring is an ideal time to plant herbaceous perennials, including Geranium, Astrantia and Oriental poppies.

Plant summer-flowering bulbs. Prepare the soil first, to ensure that drainage is sufficient to prevent the bulbs rotting. Anemone coronaria tubers need particularly well-drained soils.

Plan a continuous crop of cut flowers for this summer. Perennials such as delphiniums and annuals can be grown to produce a useful and beautiful display.

When space becomes available in the greenhouse, pot up cuttings of tender perennials taken last summer and at the beginning of this year. Bulk up plant numbers by taking more cuttings from the largest of the new plants.

Indoor forced bulbs that were in the house for winter displays, but which have now finished flowering, can now be planted into the garden, taking care not to disturb the roots.
Cutting back, pruning and dividing

Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials left for winter interest, if you have not already done so. Even if they still look good, you need to make way for the new growth.

Cut off old leaves of hellebores that produce flowers from ground level (including Helleborus x hybridus and H. niger - left) to expose the flowers and remove possible foliar diseases such as hellebore leaf spot.


Divide and/or plant bulbs-in-the-green, such as snowdrops (Galanthus) and winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis), if not done last month.

Divide clumps of herbaceous perennials that you want to propagate, those that have become too large for their allotted space, and those that are flowering poorly or have lost their shape.

Divide hostas before they come into leaf.

Divide hellebores and polyanthus-type primulas after flowering.
Propagation

Propagate more dahlias from tubers. Pot them up in multi-purpose compost so that the old stalk is just above the surface. Water and place in a warm, light position or in a propagator. Once the fresh shoots have grown to 7.5-10cm (3-4in), cut them off carefully with a knife. Dust the ends with hormone rooting power and push them into a pot containing cuttings compost. Place back in a propagator or plastic bag until roots appear.

Perennials that are showing new shots from the crown can be propagated via basal stem cuttings. Shoots 7.5-10cm (3-4in) high are cut from the parent plant with a sharp knife. Sometimes a piece of root can be taken with the cutting (which speeds establishment), but stems can be cut without root, and then dipped in hormone rooting powder before striking into growing medium, as for softwood cuttings.
General maintenance

Continue to deadhead winter-flowering pansies and other winter bedding. Pansies will carry on into the spring and even to early summer, if attended to frequently.

Deadhead the flowers of Narcissus (daffodils) as they fade, but allow the foliage to die down naturally.

Herbaceous perennials infested with couch grass and other perennial weeds should be lifted so the roots of the weeds can be removed. Improve the soil by digging in organic matter before replanting.

Clear up weedy beds before mulching. Lighter soils can be mulched now, but heavier soils are best left until March, when the soil is warmer. Mulching with a deep layer of organic matter helps to condition the soil, suppress weed growth, insulate plant roots from temperature fluctuations, and conserve soil moisture during the summer.

Bulbs coming up in the rock garden or in containers may benefit from overhead protection from the rain. A sheet of glass or perspex placed on piles of bricks will do the job.

Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and to help prevent stem rots. Mulch may need replacing after weed removal.

Improve the drainage of heavy soils by working in lots of organic matter.

Perennials putting on plenty of growth may need support by the end of the month.

Check whether containers need watering. Even at this time of year, they can dry out. Pots that are sheltered by eaves or balconies can miss out on any rainfall. If in doubt, check the compost at a hand’s depth to see if it feels dry. Aim to keep pots moist, not wet, and don’t let them dry out.

Pots and tubs benefit from topping up with fresh John Innes compost. Old compost can be removed and replaced with new if there is not much room for topping up. Some grit will also deter slugs.

Feed borders with a general-purpose fertiliser at the manufacturer's recommended rate.

It is best to get supports in early, so that the plants grow up through them, covering them discreetly. Adding rigid supports afterwards usually looks unattractive and results in bunched stems lacking sufficient ventilation. Criss-crossing strings from hidden or decorative posts work well, allowing stems to grow up in the gaps between strings.

In mild areas, you should remove winter coverings of fleece, straw, polythene etc, to prevent new shoots being damaged. In cold areas, you are best waiting until the risk of frost has passed.
Planning ahead

Members can order seed from the RHS Seed Scheme between 1 November and 31 March.

You may wish to get your sweet pea wigwam growing supports ready. In mild areas, you can transplant young plants to the feet of the wigwam, using a light twine to tie them in.
Pest and disease watch

Continue to protect new growth on lilies, delphiniums, hostas and any other plants affected, from slugs and snails.

Check autumn-sown sweet peas and apply mouse and slug controls if necessary.

Hellebore leaf spot can be a problem on old foliage of hellebores. Cutting back the old leaves should control the problem.

Aphids can multiply rapidly during mild spells. Remove early infestations by hand to prevent the problem getting out of hand. Protect sweet pea plants in particular, as they can get sweet pea viruses, which are transmitted by aphids and other sap-sucking insects.

Watch out for downy mildew and black spot on winter pansies. Remove any infected leaves and destroy badly affected plants.

Look out for rots (such as crown rot, Sclerotinia, delphinum black blotch, black root rot and antirrhinum rust).

Remove dead leaves from around the basal rosettes of alpine plants to prevent rotting.

Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and help prevent rotting around the neck.

February

Spring is in sight

This month there are signs of the approaching spring, with bulbs appearing and wildlife waking up as light levels and temperatures increase. There's plenty to do indoors this month to prepare for the season ahead. Outdoors, as the garden comes to life again, it's time to prune shrubs and climbers, such as Wisteria as well as evergreen hedges.


General maintenance
snow on conifer branch

Tie up splayed out branches on conifers that have become damaged by the weight of snow or by strong winds.

Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary.

Firm back newly planted trees and shrubs if they have been lifted by frost heave or by strong winds.

Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees.

Check protective coverings on newly planted or borderline hardy trees, shrubs and climbers, to ensure they remain secure until the risk of frost has passed.

Pruning and training

Mulch and feed shrubs, trees, hedges and climbers after pruning, to give them energy for the extra growth they will put on after cutting back.

Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage.

Trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers fade. Shears are the ideal tool. This will prevent the plants from becoming leggy and bare.

Trees

Prunus 'Pandora'Deciduous flowering Prunus species (ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned before mid-summer, and anyway should not require routine pruning if planted with sufficient space for their eventual size.

When pruning, concentrate on removing overcrowded growth, crossing stems, and dead, damaged, or dying branches. Aim for an open centre, through which air can circulate, as this will reduce the risk of pests and diseases. If your trees are too large for you to manage pruning alone, you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.


Shrubs

Hydrangea paniculata 'Pinky Winky'Many summer-flowering deciduous shrubs can be pruned between February and March; usually those that flower on the current year’s growth. Shrubs that need regular pruning include Buddleja davidii, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Lavatera, Leycesteria, Perovskia, hardy fuchsias, and deciduous Ceanothus.

Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until immediately after flowering, otherwise this year's display will be lost.

Do not prune slightly tender evergreen shrubs (such as Choisya, best left until April), but do tackle hardier examples (such as Prunus laurocerasus, the cherry laurel), if necessary.

Shrubs such as Buddleja davidii, Salix alba var. vitellina cultivars and Cornus sanguinea cultivars are usually stooled (i.e. cut back very hard), because this keeps them at a manageable size, as well as deepening the stem colour of those grown for their winter stems.

Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.

Cut out the top rosette of leaves from the leggy stems of Mahonia x media cultivars to encourage branching.

Cut or renovate deciduous hedges if necessary. They can still be renovated before leaf emergence.

Climbers

Campsis radicansSpur-prune all current stems on Campsis by cutting back the laterals to within two or three buds of the main branches forming the framework.

Cut back climbers such as ornamental vines, ivy, Virginia creeper and Boston ivy – it’s a good idea to keep them away from windows, doors, gutters and roof tiles.

Prune wisteria by cutting back the sideshoots shortened by summer pruning to two or three buds (2.5-5cm/1-2in). Avoid cutting off flower buds.

Cut back late Clematis in the summer and autumn flowering (Group 3) to the lowest pair of strong buds. Mulch and feed at the same time.

Prune winter-flowering jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) once the flowers have faded. Remove any dead or damaged shoots, tie in new shoots to the main framework, and then shorten all the laterals coming off the main framework to 5cm (2in), cutting to a bud. This will keep the plant neat, and improve flowering next winter. It is a good idea to feed and mulch after pruning, as the plant will put on lots of growth in response to cutting back.

Summer-flowering jasmines may also be pruned (if necessary), providing that they are reasonably hardy in their situation. With these you should remove a couple of stems completely to ground level, and avoid cutting back laterals, as this would damage the current year’s flowering potential.

Propagation

Malus domestica 'Bramley's seedling'Sow tree seeds that have been kept in cold storage since collection in the autumn. The famous Bramley apple was grown from a seedling (see right).

This is the last month you can still take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Salix, Forsythia, Weigela, Escallonia, Rosa, Ribes, Chaenomeles and Elaeagnus. Many deciduous climbers can also be propagated in this way (e.g. Fallopia and Lonicera).

Check hardwood cuttings taken last year - they may need planting or potting on.
Pest and disease watch

rabbitPut rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark.

Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of box blight and holly leaf blight.

Bracket fungi on trees is more visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.

Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.

Coral spot is often noticed while the leaves are off deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as often found inside clipped hedges).

Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees

Doh, we're thick. It suddenly occurred to both of us at about the same time that even a wired in smoke alarm would have a back up battery. It was well hidden in the unit but OH got it out and changed it. Result - beeps stopped :-D

Tomorrow's my birthday and I don't want another day like today.

Sorry about your pots Von.

Our problem is that OH has a bad back at the moment which we are trying very hard not to aggravate as we are off on holiday in a few days' time. However, the next door neighbour and the man across the road slid the fence panel through the gap to our side and laid it flat on our patio and I managed to stagger from the garage to the patio with a 50 litre bag of compost to weight it down so that it doesn't go flying off anywhere else. Goodness knows when it will get put back up though.

The whole fence could do with replacing but we are responsible for all of it and there is a lot of it so it will be expensive. Added to that, because of the way the houses are built, our fence abuts 5 other gardens and so we can't easily change the style of fencing. If we did 5 gardens would each have a few panels that didn't match the rest of their fencing and we would have 5 unhappy neighbours.

At the moment we are being driven mad by a fire alarm intermittently squeaking. It's a wired in one so it's not the warning that the battery is low. It is an upstairs one and we are wondering if the wiring is affected by the wind at all. Of course the previous owners didn't leave the manual for it. If it's still making a noise when the wind dies down we might have to ring the fire service to find out about it. I might try googling though we don't even know who manufactured it.

It's turning out to be one of those days.

Ann
They were some clay pots that had small conifers in them. The trees are on the ground as are the fragments of the pots.

They'll have to stay until the wind drops as I don't plan to venture outside.

Vera sorry to hear about the fence.

Von and Vera stay indoors in safety.

Von, was that large plant pots?

Vera, oh dear. More money to repair that unless your OH can do it himself.

We did notice that a couple of Heucheras thatw ere in pots have blown away, guess they had rotted and were sitting on top of the pots. But nothing major so far.

Had to go out this morning and came back to find one of our fence panels in next door's garden. There's no way we can pick it up as the wind will just whip it out of our hands. We are on amber alert here and apparently it is going to be even worse over the next few hours. Oh good :-(